Toilet
Our Sealand Model 511 toilet "CREAKED" loudly every time someone sat on it or shifted their weight when sitting on it. Now normally this isn't a problem. However, it is not an admirable design feature of a good WC. In the middle of the night it sounded like the opening door of the mystery theatre. It was loud! Sealand Technical department agreed that it was not supposed to make that noise and advised me of the following fix, which eliminated the noise. (I've edited this a bit to expand on the outline they sent.)
Snap off the toilet base cover, referring to the Sealand information supplied with the toilet. It may be necessary to first remove the plastic cover from the actuation lever arm to provide clearance for removal of the toilet base cover. Remove the stainless ring clamp, which looks like a large hose clamp. Then lift off the two plastic clamp ring halves, one from the front (sink cabinet side) of the toilet and one from the back (shower side). Inspect the plastic clamp ring halves to determine if there are any shiny areas, which will indicate stress / interference at their back or front corners. Carefully trim off any shiny areas slightly with a knife. Apply a light coating of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to the inside of the plastic clamp ring halves and reinstall them `centered' in their available space. E.g., neither `all the way' toward the street side of the toilet or `all the way' toward the curb side of the toilet. Keep the plastic ring halves centered so their ends are not binding while installing and tightening the metal ring `hose clamp', which holds them tightly in place.
Make sure that the `screw mechanism' of the stainless ring `hose clamp' is centered over the `street side' gap between the plastic clamp ring halves. Do NOT locate the metal ring clamp so that its screw mechanism is located even partially over either plastic clamp ring half.
Also remember that the metal ring clamp and the plastic clamp ring halves keep the toilet bowl attached to the toilet base, so don't push the bowl around when those ring parts are loose or off. (I found this was not a problem, as nothing seemed to move around when these parts were off.)
This job took about an hour. The result is that the toilet now `rocks' not at all and is a silent partner when sat upon. Isn't that the way it's supposed to be? Just like home! 3/5/02
--------
Our sprayer has started running anytime you press the pedal. I searched here and saw Kate had the same problem and appears you have to replace the sprayer.
Access to the connection point behind the toilet seems to be quite a pain. Does anyone know if you can pull out the vacuum break at the back and gain easier access? Does it simply pull out or is it bolted?
Jim C 11/11/09
If you have a Sealand 500 series model (as I do) the vacuum breaker can be pulled out. It is not bolted. The instructions call for you to twist as you pull. Mine pulls right out without much effort.
I am about to replace the vacuum breaker and the kit came with a new gasket which is pressed into the toilet When reassembling the vacuum breaker is pressed into the gasket using soapy water as per instructions. which seals the assembly into the toilet.
I'm guessing you can reuse the gasket but I am not sure how many times this can be repeated until the gasket MUST be replaced.
Ed 11/11/09
--------
Ours would hold water for weeks, then not for weeks, then hold water
again......
So, I got Dorothy's toothbrush and a jug of cheap white vinegar and
cut off the water pump. I poured in the vinegar and let it sit for a
few minutes. Then I scrubbed all around the seal, in and out. I
noticed several flakes of mineral scale. I repeated the process three
more times before there were no flakes. I then sprayed it with Pledge.
It's been holding water for over a week. Don 8/10/10
--------
It isn't a exceptionaly difficult job but it is in a confined area and the china bowls are heavier than the older, plastic bowls. You need to be able to get behind the bowl to loosen the big clamp and water line.
The installation instructions should be available on SeaLand's web site. The seal kit is available at most RV stores or can be ordered online.
On the 2003 LD, I used just the seal kit and it worked fine but I do have semi-local well stocked RV store to depend on.
If ordering online, I would get the whole kit, including the ball and shaft.
<http://www.sealandservices.com/traveler_parts.htm?gclid=CPSHmv7pqKQCFQcHbAodP1Je5A>
Might not be a bad time to get a spare water valve. They do break, as they age and get brittle, and when they do, you are up a creek since the toilet does not have a isolation valve to shut it off (nor do the faucets or the hot water heater). Any leak will force you to leave the water pump off until the leak is fixed.
To be prepared to shut off a leaking faucet, the most likely source of an pressurized water leak, I made a set of plugs. The inlets, off an old plastic RV bathroom faucet, were cut off and filled with epoxy.
The hollow inlet tubes were filled with epoxy. They screw into the end of the Factory hot and cold water tubes, cutting off the water supply until repairs are made.
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157607802072647/>
Larry 9/27/10
-------